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Training Philosophy
I use multi-faceted, fair, and individually tailored training methods to teach dogs and their owners how to communicate and work together to build a mutually enriching relationship. I believe in providing consistent postive and constructive feedback and guidence, setting and respecting clear boundries, and challenging dogs to build reliability and resilience. In addition to solid obedience foundations taught in a simple and well-rounded manner, nurturing an excitement to learn and a calm state of mind are absolutely crucial to raising a well-mannered, respectful canine citizen.
At a bare minimum, I think all dogs should reliably respond to:
-their name (pay attention to me)
-"come" (come to me and stay with me),
-"go" (move to where I point)
-"down" (lay down and stay until released)
-"okay" (you can do what you want)
-"good" (you did the right thing)
-"no" (you did the wrong thing).
Developing a Communication System
When a dog does something I want it TO DO, it gets MARKED with “good”, and THEN is REWARDED with a treat, toy, freedom, or brief pets. The positive reinforcement reward is faded out when the dog demonstrates that they understand the behavior and cue in a given context; but enforcement continues via negative reinforcement: a mild uncomfortable stimulus that is removed removed when the dog does the behavior. Whenever possible, I start with positive reinforcement, but if a dog will not take treats or express motivation towards other rewards, I start with negative reinformement.
When the dog has demonstrated generalized proficiency in a behavior/ cue, but refuses to comply, OR when the dog does something I want it NOT TO DO, it gets MARKED with “no”, and THEN is PUNISHED with a collar grab and direct eye contact, leash pop, or other uncomfortable simulus. When a correction is added, this is positive punishment, and when something the dog wants is taken away, this is negative punishment. The type and intensity of the correction/ removal is highly situational; context matters, but in general more firm corrections early on will stop an unwanted behavior faster than mild corrections given again and again.
Tools
I aim to use the most simple and cost effective tools that work for the owner. I have found great success with a simple 6ft nylon leash arranged as a sliplead.
I tend not to use prong collars (but will use one if necessary) or chain collars, or ecollars AT FIRST. I will use ecollars when appropriate and within the resources of the owner, but remind my clients it is cruical that (for obedience) it is overlayed ontop of strong foundations and relationships.
I highly recommend against using any type of harness, as harnesses are purposefully designed to encourage a dog to pull. I also do not use head halters because it is generally too distracting for the dog to focus and stay calm.